Ms. GF Guide's Top 10 Tips for Traveling in Tuscany

Pienza Bici, originally uploaded by A Gluten Free Guide.

As a final summary of my Tour of Tuscany 2007, here are a few tips and resources to make eating gluten-free in Italy as easy as possible. I was pleasantly surprised to discover that the awareness of Celiac disease and the meaning of gluten-free was much more prevalent in Italy than it currently is in the United States. However, that doesn’t mean that you can walk into every pizzeria, gelateria (ice cream shop) or paninoteca (sandwich shop) and find something safe to eat. With a little diligence and preparation though, you will eat more delicious Italian food that is completely gluten-free than I ever dreamed would be possible.

Tip #1 – Do your research
The Italian Celiac Association (AiC) has an extensive nation-wide listing of restaurants, gelaterie, and accommodations that are part of their gluten-free organization. Once you know what areas of the country or particular cities you are going to visit, check their site. Or you could even use the fact that a certain city has a large number of gluten-free restaurants to help plan your trip.

Tip #2 – Make a reservation
I almost missed eating at Buca di San Antonio and La Locanda del Vino Nobile because the original times we tried to get reservations were already booked. Luckily, my friends and I had a flexible enough schedule that we were able to adjust our plans.

Tip #3 – Call ahead and let them know you have Celiac and need to eat gluten-free
When making reservations, I initially assumed that if they were part of the gluten-free restaurant group that I didn’t need to let them know that I had Celiac until I arrived. While they could still make me a delicious and safe meal, extras like fresh-made gluten-free pasta and bread require advanced notice. It will also give restaurants that aren’t part of the Italian gluten-free restaurant group a chance to buy gluten-free pasta or bread from the market.

Tip #4 – Print out a supply of gluten-free restaurant cards
I am a big fan of the laminated, gluten-free restaurant cards you can purchase from Triumph Dining, but I wanted to have a big supply of “disposable” cards for this trip. I printed out 20 of these free cards I found at a CeliacTravel site. This is an incredible resource for more than just Italian gluten-free travel. I was lucky and didn’t need to use the cards during my trip, but I was glad to have them handy just in case.

Tip #5 – Find a Farmacia
If you have the opportunity to go to a large grocery story in Italy, you will find plenty of gluten-free cookies and frozen and boxed pastas and breads. However, in the city center the smaller markets will not usually carry a large selection. Instead, seek out a large Farmacia (Pharmacy). Celiac disease’s status as a medical condition means that the larger pharmacies carry gluten-free pasta and breads as well as some flour mixes and cookies. While I found many of the smaller pharmacies didn’t carry any gluten-free products, the larger ones usually had a pretty large selection. The pharmacy I came across in the city center of Lucca, offered an entire freezer of gluten-free goodies from gluten-free ravioli to gluten-free pastry dough. It is an interesting juxtaposition of goods in an otherwise sterile feeling environment, but it’s an incredible resource.

Tip #6 – You are on your own for breakfast
Most hotels that include breakfast serve an assortment of cereals and pastries. You might be able to get fruit or some meat or cheese at a larger buffet, but don’t count on it. I picked up yogurt, fruit, cheese and prosciutto at a local stand when I arrived in Lucca and kept that in the mini-bar fridge for breakfast.

Tip #7 – Prosciutto and cheese are your friends
Even at a restaurant that proclaims bread as its specialty was the site of an incredible gluten-free feast. During tours of the Carpazo and Salcheto vineyards we had pecorino and prosciutto with our tastings (enough for a small meal). Prosciutto, salumi (mixed Italian charcuterie), cheese and fruit (minus the bread) were a constant source of gluten-free food joy for me.

Tip #8 – Bring some non-perishables in your suitcase
Even with the best laid plans, it is sometimes difficult to find something safe to eat. As long as you have some gluten-free foods in your suitcase and carry-on, you never have to go hungry.

Tip #9 – Don’t count on the airlines for a gluten-free meal
Delta has recently added gluten-free back to its list of special menus, but I would never rely completely on an airline to feed me safely. For my flight back from Italy, I asked for a gluten-free meal but still brought plenty of fruit, meat, cheese and gluten-free crackers to get me through the trip. Thank goodness I did, because after initially serving me a “gluten-free meal” that included the gluten-laden roll and crackers they gave everyone else, I just didn’t feel comfortable eating the rest of the dish. During a trip to Scotland on Continental last year, they gave me the vegetarian meal instead of the gluten-free meal, which unfortunately I started to eat in my sleepy state. I have had three positive experiences with gluten-free meals on Continental and Delta, but you may end up sad, hungry or worse – sick if you rely on them completely.

Tip #10 – Travel with understanding friends
My incredible friends Katie, Eliana and Gareth took part in the gluten-free adventures rather than bemoaning the effort. In the end we frequently ended up with better food and more attention than we otherwise would have.

Bonus Tip – Try something new or unexpected
Gluten-free or not, sometimes the new or unusual things you have a chance to try may surprise you most. I love the fact that you can get pear juice in almost any bar in Italy. As my friends were drinking the typical Irish pub fare during a soccer match, I ordered a glass of pear juice deliciousness. Pate, something I didn’t think would ever be a source of joy for me, ended up being one of my favorite dishes at Poggio Antico. And don’t forget to enjoy all of the amazing sites and non-food related activities!

I hope this helps anyone planning a gluten-free trip to Italy. Please leave a comment if you have any other tips or advice for those of us trying to travel deliciously.

Below is a consolidated list of the restaurants and gelaterie I enjoyed during my gluten-free trip to Italy. Buon appetito!

Lucca
Gli Orti Di Via Elisa
Buca di San Antonio

Florence / Firenze
Cantinetta del Verrazzano
Gelato

Montalcino
Poggio Antico

Montefollonico
La Chiusa

Montepulciano
La Locanda del Vino Nobile

Pienza
La Terrazza del Chiostro

Siena
Antica Trattoria Botteganova

La Chiusa Restaurant - Dania and Umberto steal my heart

La Chiusa Veal, originally uploaded by A Gluten Free Guide.

After four days of spectacular gluten-free dining experiences in Italy, Gareth and I didn’t have grandiose expectations for our last big meal of the trip. When we arrived at La Chiusa in the small town of Montefollonico we were stunned by the beauty of the surroundings and the graciousness of our hosts. Dania and Umberto opened La Chiusa the restaurant 33 years ago and for the last 12 years have also run a small hotel. Tucked away between Pienza and Montepulciano, La Chiusa offers breathtaking views and deceptively simple cuisine. Dania and Umberto show an incredible love for cooking and food; their warmth envelops you the moment they greet you.

The first person we met upon our arrival was Dania. Not realizing at the time that this was THE Dania, the heart and soul behind La Chiusa, we perfunctorily gave her our name and told her we had a reservation. She smiled back and said “ah, si, Caterina, la signorina che non puo’ mangiare glutine” (Yes, Catherine, the young woman who can’t eat gluten). Here we were at a Michelin starred restaurant and the Chef knew my name and that I couldn’t have gluten. She then suggested that we walk around the property and look at the grounds. The beauty and peace were so striking it seemed enchanted.

When we were seated for lunch, I was again presented with a stool for my handbag. After our dinner at Antica Trattoria Botteganova, I at least understood what the miniature furniture was for, though the price of our lunch was not quite as affordable as dinner had been.

As incredible as it sounds, our meal at La Chiusa satisfied us more than those of our other culinary escapades.

The amuse bouche consisted of Finocchiona on a gluten-free cracker for me and pizzette for Gareth.

The first course of our tasting menu was a Fiori di Zucca alla Ricotta. The fried zucchini flowers I enjoyed when living in Rome seemed exiled to my memory. Dania prepares the flowers with fresh ricotta and a red sauce without using any breading. Her naturally gluten-free version surpassed, in all respects, the ones I enjoyed pre-Celiac.

The second course was a crepe stuffed with porcini mushrooms in a béchamel sauce. While the crepe is only made with eggs, the béchamel sauce included flour. As a gluten-free alternative I was served a porcini mushroom sautéed with garlic and mint. I love sautéed mushrooms, but this porcini preparation served as an introduction to flavors and textures I didn’t know were possible.

The third course was a fagioli soup. To keep it gluten-free, barley was not included as the standard recipe requires.

To expand our tastings, Gareth elected to get the chickpea soup. Again they left out a typical ingredient, this time pasta, to keep it gluten-free.

The chickpea was my favorite, a little bit sharper than the fagioli. Since Gareth preferred the fagioli, we gladly swapped. The absence of gluten did not betoken an absence of flavor. Quite the opposite!

The pasta course included handmade paparadelle with a meat ragu for Gareth and gluten-free shells with a simple red sauce for me. Our host suggested we first taste the sauce without adding cheese. Oh how right he was! The extra cheese merely served as a distraction from the flavor of the sauce. It is perfectly seasoned by Dania’s expert hands, with just a hint of spice (pepperoncino).

With a choice of sorbets for our palate cleanser, we selected the pear and white grape.

The pear sorbet was smooth and creamy with tiny flecks of pear.

La Chiusa's own vineyard supplies the fresh grapes for their grape sorbet. The flavors were so rich we waited before indulging in our wine. This was much more than a mere “palate cleanser.”

The main course was, again, naturally gluten-free: grilled veal with salad and fresh herbs. Theoretically it wasn’t anything special, but it rivaled or even exceeded any single dish we ate on our trip. The sage, rosemary and roasted tomatoes were picked that day from Dania’s garden.

The garlic, white pepper and olive oil married all of the flavors together so well, I am happy to relive it through photos which retrieve my memories of each bite.

To finish our meal, we selected from a number of choices for dessert. Gareth ordered the caramel ice cream with flambéed figs from the garden. The cialde cookie (a typical gelato accompaniment) made this dish verboten for me. However, I was perfectly happy to have one of my favorite desserts all to myself. Dania’s panna cotta (a cooked vanilla cream) takes a potentially heavy dish and makes every bite a delight. The spun sugar added a hint of crunch to the creamy texture producing an incredible result. As you can see, I didn’t let a morsel go to waste.

Umberto presented us with a bag of white grapes from their vineyard as a parting gift. We thanked Dania and Umberto for our unparalled dining experience and got a tour of the kitchen. I purchased Dania’s cookbook and learned that with two or three days notice you can arrange to do a cooking class with her at La Chiusa.

This meal didn’t include any fancy ingredients, like the pate we enjoyed at Poggio Antico or unusual flavor combinations, like the basil ice cream we had at Antica Trattoria Botteganova, but the food was more pleasant and fully satisfying than any meal in recent memory.
The geniality of our hosts and the beauty of our surroundings truly lifted our spirits.

My future sees me dining again at La Chiusa and next time staying at the hotel. Rest assured, I will be putting the cookbook to good use and will share my results here.

La Chiusa

Via della Madonnina, 88

53040 Montefollonico (Si) Italy
Tel. 0577 669 668

Fax 0577 669.593
Closed Tuesdays

A Gluten-Free Evening in Siena Italy

Botteganova Secondo, originally uploaded by A Gluten Free Guide.

With only two days left in our mini-tour, Gareth and I were inspired by our lunch at Poggio Antico to find restaurants of a similar level. We left our less than luxurious accomodations in Pienza for a hotel outside Siena (IKEA on the hill, as it was affectionately called due to some interesting decorating choices). A search for Michelin starred restaurants in Siena led us to the Antica Trattoria Botteganova.

We were lucky to get a table on a Saturday night even though the restaurant is slightly off the beaten path. I knew we were veering out of my price range when I was given a little stool for my handbag so that it didn’t have to sit on the floor. But even with that level of service, I was suprised to see that the chef’s tasting menu was only 40 euros. When we asked about making a gluten-free version, they gladly accommodated our request.

Our first course was a sea bream salad with porcini mushrooms and a balsamic cream sauce. Even with our love of balsamic vinegar, exhibited during our dinner at La Locanda del Vino Nobile, we found this cream just a little too strong overpowering the rest of the dish.

The pasta course arrived next looking deceptively simple: shrimp scampi with smoked tomatoes and basil. Just a hint of olive oil topped my gluten-free spaghetti and Gareth’s fresh tagliani. The roasted tomatoes were exploding with flavor; the basil enhanced the essence of the dish without overwhelming it. Gareth tasted both the gluten-free and gluten versions and actually preferred the texture of my gluten-free pasta.

The second pasta course changed the tenor of the evening from good to great. Gluten-free penne pasta with a truffle cream sauce danced on my taste buds while Gareth savored a fresh tortellini in a pecorino cream sauce, highlighted with truffles.
We giddily relished each mouthful.

The last course of the tasting menu featured local wild boar. The gluten-free version was served with grilled veggies, rather than the roasted potatoes encrusted with breadcrumbs. This dish is now indelibly stamped in my book of remarkable food memories. I enjoyed every morsel of the boar medallions abandoning my habit of trimming away the fat.

On a trip where indulging in food and wine was our raison d'etre, our eyes greedily devoured the dessert menu. Once again, Gareth found our gluten-free dessert selections to be a favorite part of an already remarkable meal.

The meringues with basil ice cream and mixed berry sauce continue to pleasantly haunt my memories. The lightness of the meringue with the perfectly melding flavors of sweet basil and berries combined to make a dessert I could happily eat daily.

Gareth’s first experience with a semifreddo was not a disappointment. Chef Michele combined pistachios and bitter hazelnut to create a tremendous end to our meal. (For those of you unfamiliar with semifreddo it is an italian confection that is a cross between gelato and mousse.)

Antica Trattoria Botteganova delivered exceptional cuisine accompanied by a memorable ambiance. The obvious and numerous "regulars" were testament to the restaurant's seductive power. The Chef came out to welcome guests throughout the evening and even sat down at two different tables to chat about politics and, of course, food!

Antica Trattoria Botteganova

Strada Chiantigiana, 29

53100 - Siena - Italy

tel +39 (0)577.284230

fax +39 (0)577.271519

info@anticatrattoriabotteganova.it

La Locanda del Vino Nobile - Montepulciano, Italy

Locanda Pane, originally uploaded by A Gluten Free Guide.

After our three hour lunch at Poggio Antico, Gareth and I still managed to rally for dinner. When the primary purpose of your vacation is to relax and enjoy the food and wine, it seemed silly to skip a meal.

When planning my wine tour of Tuscany with Gareth, I started by looking at organized tour itineraries. It inspired me with places to visit and a general outline for how to plan our four days. I took the most appealing aspects of each tour to lay out a general plan for us – at a much lower cost than the organized tour.

La Locanda del Vino Nobile was a restaurant recommended as a lunch stop on a tour of the vineyards of Montepulciano. It also happens to be part of the Italian Celiac Association (AiC). When it was booked for lunch but open for dinner, we adjusted our plans - just one of the many happy coincidences leading to our magical lunch at Poggio Antico.

When we arrived for dinner, we were greeted by our over-worked but gracious host. When I informed him that I needed to eat gluten-free, he looked truly crestfallen. I wondered what about MY dietary restrictions could have dampened his mood so dramatically. He then explained to me that if he had known in advance he could have made me any fresh pasta of my choice (ravioli, pici, tagliatelle). Oh, now it was my turn to look crestfallen.

I was disappointed with my missed opportunity but we forged on and ordered our dinner. I was served a mixture of gluten-free crackers and crisps.

Gareth and I split a plate of antipasti misti including eggplant, zucchini and mozzarella encrusted with gluten-free breadcrumbs then pan fried. I wouldn't call it low in calories by any means but it was definitely not heavy the way I remember most gluten-filled fried zucchini and mozzarella. Our host happily explained that they had recently hosted a four-course dinner with wine pairings for the president of the Italian Celiac Association (AiC). I could understand why the president of the AiC wanted to eat there as soon as I had a taste of this dish.

As a "light" main, I encouraged Gareth to try the glutenous pici pasta - a regional specialty.

I selected the tagliata all’aceto balsamico (sliced grilled steak served with balsamic vinegar). The 20 year aged balsamic vinegar was rich with a depth of flavor difficult to explain without sampling the luscious treat.

When he brought the bottle of vinegar, there was plenty for my steak. Gareth and I enjoyed the sweet and savory flavor so much we decided to use it to dress our grilled vegetables. By the time our meal was over, we had practically finished the bottle – oops.

We were far too full to consider dessert. Though seeing my disappointment regarding the missed opportunity for fresh gluten-free pasta, Gareth asked if they had any open tables for lunch the next day. When our host responded affirmatively, I had only to choose which pasta I wanted. Unable to choose, Gareth offered to split the dishes with me so that I could try more than one. It was still a tough decision, but I settled on gluten-free pici and gluten-free ravioli.

Gareth, now an expert on pici pasta (twice in 24 hours), declared he couldn’t tell the difference between our gluten-free plate and the dish he ate the previous night. This fresh pasta was just as delicious as I remembered from my pre-Celiac days. The spiciness of the red sauce was highlighted nicely by our Vino Nobile di Montepulciano wine.

The gluten-free ravioli I’ve had before was good, but the fresh-made pasta we were served at La Locanda was outstanding. Filled with spinach and ricotta and topped with a sage butter sauce and parmiggiano reggiano cheese, Gareth said the actual pasta tasted better than the pasta from Poggio Antico.

For our next course we split La Fiorintina (or Florentine Steak). My biggest regret during this perfect trip is not getting a photo of our host bringing out our uncooked steak for our approval. The vision of him holding this 1.4 kilo (3.1 pounds) steak at our table will forever be seared in my mind, but I wish I could share it with you. The cooked version will have to suffice.

As a novelty, this steak was fantastic. Though some may scream blasphemy, I prefer a smaller, filet mignon from Ruths Chris or the Hangar Steak at Craft Restaurant in NY. The price per 100g made this one of the most expensive individual dishes from the entire trip. (For more info on the tradition of Florentine Steaks check out this episode of Mark Bittman’s Best Recipes in The World or this summary of the episode from The Amateur Gourmet)

We again ordered the grilled vegetables, though this time they kept the expensive aged balsamic vinegar away from our table....

In addition to the fresh-made gluten-free pasta, I was also served four types of gluten-free rolls: natural, onion, oregano, and rosemary. The soft onions in the chewy, moist, perfect roll brought back taste memories from years ago. To have four different gluten-free rolls just seemed an embarrassment of riches!

I would highly recommend anyone seeking a gluten-free panoply of choices to make reservations at La Locanda del Vino Nobile. Part of a tuscan farm house, they also offer 5 rooms in the Inn if you are seeking gluten-free accomodations. Just make sure you give them notice to take full advantage!

Next stop: We move on to Siena and Antica Trattoria Botteganova




La Locanda del Vino Nobile
Via dei Lillà 1/3

53045 S.Albino-Montepulciano (SI) - ITALY

Tel. +39 0578 798064 Fax +39 0578 79926

email: info@lalocandadelvinonobile.it

Gluten-Free in Italy - An Afternoon to Remember

Poggio Antico Liver Pate with Moscadello wine sauce, originally uploaded by A Gluten Free Guide.

I will forever be grateful for the series of events that led to my lunch at the Ristorante di Poggio Antico which is part of a winery in Montalcino, Italy. A marvelous confluence of events created what is now a delicious piece of history for me. It began with asking Shauna for recommendations in Florence which resulted in a meal at Cantinetta del Verrazzano where I met Jonathan who recommended the winery at Poggio Antico. Gareth and I weren’t sure we would have time for Poggio Antico until our intended restaurant declared they were full for lunch. The weavers of fate always get their way.

At the winery we were greeted by the charming Alessandro Signorino who guided us to our table on the picture perfect patio. Our review of the menu did not give any hint of the delights we were about to experience. My ever-lightening purse steered my eyes to the a la carte and tasting menu items. Gareth, overtaken by a fit of generosity, offered to treat us to the full seven-course tasting menu AND a bottle of Brunello wine. Sometimes the weavers of fate just smile at you.

Before the meal we were served an aperitif – Chardonnay di Montalcino and an amuse bouche of tomato and mozzarella with a fresh basil sauce. This put our Chiostro insalta caprese to shame, and we hadn’t even started the actual tasting menu yet.

While they didn’t have any gluten-free bread (though I hadn’t given them any notice either) they did have rice crackers for me. They were a source of comedic relief throughout the lunch – compared to the rest of our food and Gareth’s selection of tomato basil, rosemary, truffle and pesto rolls, they seemed a little out of place.

We trusted Alessandro’s selection of the 1999 Brunello di Montalcino (of course from Poggio Antico).

The presentation of the wine was as beautiful as the rest of the surroundings. With a master’s hands he “rinsed” each glass with wine before pouring our bottle. [We learned later that this is to prepare the glass and remove any residue that may be left from washing.]

Our first course was a veal tartare served with shaved parmiggiano reggiano. This was my first experience with a tartare other than fish, but my trepidation was tempered by the gentle breeze and perfect temperature. The buttery texture of the veal with the simple crunch of the parmiggiano was incredible. Add the brunello wine, and we were carried off to a new level of taste sensation.

The next course, liver pate served with Moscadello sweet wine sauce (pictured above) was “the chef’s answer to the French foie gras.” My first taste of pate, during a trip to Montreal, left me less than enthusiastic to try it again. However, this is one of my most memorable dishes from the entire trip. The strawberry garnish was the fullest-flavored strawberry Gareth and I had ever had. The bite of each seed exploded with flavor. I have never licked my lips with such relish before.

The third course was on the menu as Sliced fish fillet served with Cannellini bean sauce. That day it was red mallet. As Alessandro explained to us when we asked how they managed to get such amazing strawberries, the chef picks each day the best produce and meat before deciding what to serve. Hence, the type of fish or fruit isn’t specified so that they can present guests with the best food available each and every day. The cannelloni bean sauce was light yet creamy yet not brothy. I am ill-equiped to fully describe it. The first bite was ok but the flavor developed and the finish was incredible.

Our fourth course was the first time that they had to substitute the original offering to give me a gluten-free alternative. I was given a risotto with saffron (a spice that is more expensive than gold) and zucchini. The parmiggiano reggiano garnish was a crescendo of flavor crescendo. Gareth was served a fresh-made ravioli filled with foie gras and prawns served in a lobster bisque. With the final bite he proclaimed, “that might as well been the single greatest bite that I will ever eat in my entire life.” Or ate least until the next course came.

The fifth course again brought a deviation for the gluten-free. While Gareth was presented a stuffed quail served with truffles and an Oyster sauce, I was served lamb with a Brunello wine reduction sauce, a vegetable caponata and finished with red sea salt. When I gave Gareth a taste he responded “You may have just supplanted my favorite bite.” The sweet wine sauce with the crunch of the salt, the perfectly cooked vegetables and lamb, once it was combined with a sip of the ’99 Brunello it was transcendental.

As our meal started to wind down, our next plate was the cheese course. A sheep’s milk Mille Pepe, a piemontese cow’s milk Taleggio, and of course an aged sheep’s milk pecorino, were served with a pear sauce. Our favorite was the Mille Pepe which I have tried in vain to find in NYC.

Before dessert, we had sorbetti to clear our palates. Uva fragollina (a type of grape with a strawberry hue) and Pineapple ginger. The Chef again did not disappoint.

Our seventh and final course again brought two different plates to the table. My gluten-free dessert was a trio of chocolate mouse and a zabaglione gelato topped with fresh chocolate sauce. Gareth was served a molten chocolate cake and truffle gelato in a fresh-made cialde cookie. Even Alessandro was in awe of the truffle gelato, “In my 20 years in Italy this is the only Chef who can do something like that.”

By the time we finished dessert, and yes you can see we actually ate it all, three hours had passed. After savoring every bite of a luxurious lunch, Gareth actually had to drink his cappuccino with some haste in order for us to catch the tour of the winery (the original reason for our stop at Poggio Antico). The tour was fascinating especially after experiencing first-hand the height to which a good Brunello wine can take your dining experience.

This lunch inspired us to seek out even more amazing dining experiences, including La Chiusa and Antica Trattoria Botteganova, but this meal was the most incredible display of how wine can elevate food. At the end of our trip as we tried to recount our favorite dishes, I commented on how this was the best food/wine combo of them all. As I came to realize, the chef (Roberto Minnetti, who is clearly talented in his own right) has the luxury of knowing that most of his customers will be selecting a Brunello from Poggio Antico to accompany his creations. The subtle flavors of the food are then enhanced perfectly by the wine.

Ah, I am transported back just by looking at the photos. Being gluten-free can be me more delicious than anyone can imagine when they are first diagnosed. In fact if it weren’t for my gluten-free substitutions, Gareth wouldn’t have ever known the joy that came in the form of our lamb dish. Thanks for letting me share this lunch with you. Thank you to Jonathan, Shauna, Gareth, Alessandro, and of course the chef at Poggio for being instrumental in making it .

And if you can believe it, we still made our dinner reservation later that night. Next stop on my gluten-free tour of Italy: La Locanda del Vino Nobile.

Poggio Antico
53024 Montalcino (Siena), Italy
Tel. +39 0577-848044 Fax +39 0577-846563
Email: mail@poggioantico.com